Polk Audio PSW505B 12" Powered Subwoofer Single

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I want this... just no good place for it in the room, currently.

I have bad experience with Polk audio sub. Their build quality is pretty poor. Mine PSW50 fails due to the glue they use cannot last long- they come apart after a few years..

Repairs using advanced tech like string and glue are not hard. (string tied around it to apply a little pressure while drying if you don't have proper, large-enough clamps to do the job).

If you feel it vibrates itself apart you could also consider cutting a wood 1x2 plank to size and gluing plus screwing it across the x & y axis inside (z axis being the one with the woofer and rear panels if designed like this one with front-firing woofer).

Further reinforcements would include first stripping away excess glue residue from the inside seams and cutting a few 2x2 plants across diagonally so you have strips to glue to the 90' angles where each panel joins the adjacent side, and as above you could screw them so they're even more sturdy, using black wood screws available at many hardware stores if the outer surface is black.

Doesn't take but a minute to do if you have basic supplies and the wood.

#3 Thank you for your info however my problem on the Polk audio sub is : The spider foam (where the voice coil connect to)was separated from the metal frame. All the glue they use look like "melted" so the spider foam layer come off. To me, even my 30 years old Dahlquist dq-10 never happen this situation for me.

Ghost Rider wrote:

#3 Thank you for your info however my problem on the Polk audio sub is : The spider foam (where the voice coil connect to)was separated from the metal frame. All the glue they use look like "melted" so the spider foam layer come off. To me, even my 30 years old Dahlquist dq-10 never happen this situation for me.

... so buy a new driver for it, cheaper than buying whole new sub and you can pick exactly what you want... or of course you can still use a different type of glue to repair it. At worst when repaired it has some resale value.

Another alternative to #3's suggestions is to buy a good subwoofer...

Yes, you can tie stuff up, glue it back together, whatever - but a quality SW should not be coming apart and you should not have to retrofit your own fixes to their "economy" designs. Look more to Hsu, SVS, etc. - they do subwoofers right & they're worth the price (or look for a used one you can pick up locally).

Polk makes some great speakers for the money. However their subs have a lot to be desired. Their newer DSW subs are supposed to be better. Check our SVS, Epik, HSU, and other sub brands for better bang for your buck, literally.

thanks for the good info guys..

#5: I took the sub apart and can only find part number on the driver- they don't even bother print some basic spec on the driver itself- that's really unprofessional for me. So I send the driver to speaker repair shop and redo the glue things.
Basically this is due to LOW QUALITY MATERIAL USED to build Polk audio subs. I have had Velodyne, DBX and Hsu,Celestion, Energy,Linn, Martin Logan and Dahlquist and many other brand speakers/subs- even the the Kenwood, Pioneer, Yamaha units outlast the polk audio units- so there is no more Polk Audio speakers for me..

Lol #6 TRUE. Being able to repair something and having to repair something are two different things.

Ghost Rider wrote:

#5: I took the sub apart and can only find part number on the driver- they don't even bother print some basic spec on the driver itself- that's really unprofessional for me. So I send the driver to speaker repair shop and redo the glue things. Basically this is due to LOW QUALITY MATERIAL USED to build Polk audio subs. I have had Velodyne, DBX and Hsu,Celestion, Energy,Linn, Martin Logan and Dahlquist and many other brand speakers/subs- even the the Kenwood, Pioneer, Yamaha units outlast the polk audio units- so there is no more Polk Audio speakers for me..

Well you get no more than you pay for... Sometimes even less, but that's the lottery and you then decide to repair or have total loss, but often repair is better than total loss.

You don't need a part # as if you were going to replace with same thing, don't replace with same thing since as you mentioned it is prone to fail. Pick a better driver in the right size and with specs complimentary to your enclosure size, without going into a tutorial about it I can suggest a web search to aide in matching driver spec to cabinet volume.

Even a cheap sub that fails, that is later improved can be good for some purposes, or as mentioned previously it can be repaired cheapest way reasonably possible and resold for a profit instead of just adding to landfill... your choice.

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