i've had this monitor for two years and it's a decent monitor, but i wouldn't buy it again (nor consider it a good deal) if it broke.
i bought mine for $85-95 two years ago, so i hardly consider $100 a deal two years later.
it's cfl/non-led backlit. my biggest complaint is that it has all the typical cfl problems: warm-up (it takes a minute or two to get to full brightness and it's getting longer the older it gets), dimming (it's slowly getting dimmer), and it'll eventually suddenly burn-out (like all bulbs) or fade out.
i plan on replacing my current cfl-backlit panels with led ones once they hit this price point ($90-120) instead of the current $120-150.
CFL backlighting is definitely a trade-off. On the one hand I end up turning down the brightness on TN panels so the blacks don't look as much like dark gray, so dimming of the CFLs is something I can adjust for at least for the first few years, but on the other hand CFL backlighting tends to give better color fidelity than LEDs... at least on budget class monitors.
I usually find that the power supply self destructs before the backlighting fails or degrades beyond a usable level.
CFL backlighting is definitely a trade-off. On the one hand I end up turning down the brightness on TN panels so the blacks don't look as much like dark gray, so dimming of the CFLs is something I can adjust for at least for the first few years, but on the other hand CFL backlighting tends to give better color fidelity than LEDs... at least on budget class monitors.
i bought a ColorHug colorimeter (which generates an icc) within the last year to get more accurate colors, so i no longer tweak the monitor settings (rgb & brightness) by hand, but maybe i should continue to turn down the brightness. when i hand tweaked it (using theseimages) the default brightness was always too high. since getting the colorimeter i leave my monitors at the default settings because trying to remember or save the settings (piece of paper or text file) is a pain (because eventually a monitor forgets its settings and with an icc the settings have to be the same as previously for the icc to be applicable, though you should regenerate an icc occasionally to account for monitor aging/degradation).
dave_c wrote:
I usually find that the power supply self destructs before the backlighting fails or degrades beyond a usable level.
i've bought 4 lcd monitors over the last 5 to 7 years and only one of those has failed me: its power supply blew within the first few months. it was repaired/replaced under warranty and is running great since, though a little slow to warm up and not as bright. the worst is my original lcd, a 19" viewsonic, that's lost half of its brightness and is noticeably dim.
and, yes, i expect my hardware to last a long time. every cpu, ram, and hard drive is running or ran just as good now or when i decommissioned it as i
i've had this monitor for two years and it's a decent monitor, but i wouldn't buy it again (nor consider it a good deal) if it broke.
i bought mine for $85-95 two years ago, so i hardly consider $100 a deal two years later.
it's cfl/non-led backlit. my biggest complaint is that it has all the typical cfl problems: warm-up (it takes a minute or two to get to full brightness and it's getting longer the older it gets), dimming (it's slowly getting dimmer), and it'll eventually suddenly burn-out (like all bulbs) or fade out.
i plan on replacing my current cfl-backlit panels with led ones once they hit this price point ($90-120) instead of the current $120-150.
Newegg Business has the ASUS VE228H HDMI monitor for $90 AR-$10. Search for p/n N82E16824236100. It is a better value than this Acer monitor.
http://www.neweggbusiness.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236100
CFL backlighting is definitely a trade-off. On the one hand I end up turning down the brightness on TN panels so the blacks don't look as much like dark gray, so dimming of the CFLs is something I can adjust for at least for the first few years, but on the other hand CFL backlighting tends to give better color fidelity than LEDs... at least on budget class monitors.
I usually find that the power supply self destructs before the backlighting fails or degrades beyond a usable level.
i bought a ColorHug colorimeter (which generates an icc) within the last year to get more accurate colors, so i no longer tweak the monitor settings (rgb & brightness) by hand, but maybe i should continue to turn down the brightness. when i hand tweaked it (using these images) the default brightness was always too high. since getting the colorimeter i leave my monitors at the default settings because trying to remember or save the settings (piece of paper or text file) is a pain (because eventually a monitor forgets its settings and with an icc the settings have to be the same as previously for the icc to be applicable, though you should regenerate an icc occasionally to account for monitor aging/degradation).
i've bought 4 lcd monitors over the last 5 to 7 years and only one of those has failed me: its power supply blew within the first few months. it was repaired/replaced under warranty and is running great since, though a little slow to warm up and not as bright. the worst is my original lcd, a 19" viewsonic, that's lost half of its brightness and is noticeably dim.
and, yes, i expect my hardware to last a long time. every cpu, ram, and hard drive is running or ran just as good now or when i decommissioned it as i