YesBuy.net has the Arctic Cooling MX-2 Thermal Compound 4-gram syringe for $6 with free shipping. This review finds that it is 3-4% better than Arctic Silver 5, which has been a trusty heat sink compound for many years.
Careful #1, if my mommy finds out you're talking like this she'll give you a spanking
Splendid! Hopefully ScottK will post his mom's phone number so that we can all talk dirty to her, and receive a "punishment" spanking in return. *smirk*
John Foxen is pulling your leg, there is no need whatsoever to use a special thermal compound removal formula. Even gasoline would work fine, but personally I like the old (non-creamy) brasso the best because it not only cleans, it polishes the metal to a smoother finish too.
Agreed. Just use metal polish then clean with alcohol. Or just use alcohol even and rub it clean. Then use this thermal grease because it is cheap and good, or AS5.
Often alcohol alone won't work, I mean with an OEM thermal interface material, the gummy waxy type, because alcohol won't dissolve it.
When alcohol will work it is certainly a good option due to being gentle, cheap, commonly available. Otherwise the more universal cleaner is a petroleum based solvent, and can be found in some common household products (among others), some of which would of course need a second cleaning with a non-residue cleaner if you're being especially picky but others like gas or lighter fluid wouldn't and in practice, the ideal of removing every last molecule of a cleaning agent gone doesn't necessarily mean it'll result in a meaningful improvement in thermal conductivity. IOW, for a sane person if it looks clean and dust free it's good enough, won't make even 1C measurable difference.
Gasoline Kerosene Lighter Fluid WD40 Goo-Gone Brasso Paint Thinner (old higher volatility type, I haven't tried the new human-friendly type on TIM) Many aerosol household cleaners Carb Cleaner Acetone (be careful with it around plastics)
Of these, none of them really need a second pass with another cleaner, simply rubbing a dry paper towel vigorously is enough, once dry then blow any lint off. Another easy way to get addt'l residue off is use Arctic Alumina or Ceramique, put a tiny bit on a paper towel and rub it on and off again. It is abrasive and will micro-grind, polish off the finish as well as removing any significant amount of residue. It doesn't polish as fine as brasso but beyond the vanity of having a mirror-shine to a heatsink you don't actually need a finsh THAT shiney.
If everybody bought just one of these and then smeared it all over their sweaty balls, we could solve the problem of global warming overnight.
Or, in mOFO's case... sweaty ball...
or his face.. thats where his nut sack is.
#2 - how do you come to know this?
Careful #1, if my mom finds out you're talking like this she'll give you a spanking and take away your internet privileges.
This thing will never fit in my arm.
Splendid! Hopefully ScottK will post his mom's phone number so that we can all talk dirty to her, and receive a "punishment" spanking in return. *smirk*
This stuff makes no difference.
Neither do your comments...but thanks for playing.
Great. The bandana brigade is on the loose. It would be nice if Ben would enforce an age limit - no one under 12 should weed out most of them.
Removed by forum Administrator
I would like to see an age limit, where Ben bans anyone who acts over the age of 70... like Scott "Depends" K. *smirk*
All us 12 year olds agree with you.
So what is the recommended dosage of this stuff to treat chronic explosive diarrhea?
The Zalman stuff works exceptionally well and it's a breeze to install.
It also costs more, but it's worth the few bucks extra if you value your time.
Oh, and be sure to use this as well.
John Foxen is pulling your leg, there is no need whatsoever to use a special thermal compound removal formula. Even gasoline would work fine, but personally I like the old (non-creamy) brasso the best because it not only cleans, it polishes the metal to a smoother finish too.
Agreed. Just use metal polish then clean with alcohol. Or just use alcohol even and rub it clean. Then use this thermal grease because it is cheap and good, or AS5.
Often alcohol alone won't work, I mean with an OEM thermal interface material, the gummy waxy type, because alcohol won't dissolve it.
When alcohol will work it is certainly a good option due to being gentle, cheap, commonly available. Otherwise the more universal cleaner is a petroleum based solvent, and can be found in some common household products (among others), some of which would of course need a second cleaning with a non-residue cleaner if you're being especially picky but others like gas or lighter fluid wouldn't and in practice, the ideal of removing every last molecule of a cleaning agent gone doesn't necessarily mean it'll result in a meaningful improvement in thermal conductivity. IOW, for a sane person if it looks clean and dust free it's good enough, won't make even 1C measurable difference.
Gasoline
Kerosene
Lighter Fluid
WD40
Goo-Gone
Brasso
Paint Thinner (old higher volatility type, I haven't tried the new human-friendly type on TIM)
Many aerosol household cleaners
Carb Cleaner
Acetone (be careful with it around plastics)
Of these, none of them really need a second pass with another cleaner, simply rubbing a dry paper towel vigorously is enough, once dry then blow any lint off. Another easy way to get addt'l residue off is use Arctic Alumina or Ceramique, put a tiny bit on a paper towel and rub it on and off again. It is abrasive and will micro-grind, polish off the finish as well as removing any significant amount of residue. It doesn't polish as fine as brasso but beyond the vanity of having a mirror-shine to a heatsink you don't actually need a finsh THAT shiney.