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Amazon has the Autel MaxiScan MS300 OBD-II Code Reader for $21 with free shipping on $25+. Compatible with 1996 and later OBD II-compliant vehicles, reads and displays Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs). Now you'll know whether you need a new engine or you're just low on wiper fluid.
Autel MaxiScan MS300 OBD-II Code Reader $21 at Amazon
$21
  • 1
    SamKlakhammer - Posted 3:15 pm PDT 10/29/11 (526 Posts)  Report Spam

    I have one of these, and it works very well for what it does. It's a basic code reader and can reset the codes [en masse].

    Don't let the reviews on amazon scare you. Mine came with a pure-English [not engrish] manual, and the unit works exactly as the manual describes.

    I really wonder how they can sell this so cheap when competitive units from other places all cost at least 3X the price.

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  • 2
    kel789 - Posted 8:22 pm PDT 10/29/11 (284 Posts)  Report Spam

    #1, does it read even when the car is not ready? something replacing a sensor and then resetting the car there is a drive mileage cycle.

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  • 3
    SamKlakhammer - Posted 9:32 pm PDT 10/29/11 (526 Posts)  Report Spam

    I cannot answer that directly. Whenever I've plugged it into my car ['01 Pontiac GP GTP] it has just connected, read out the codes [both set and pending] and cleared them all if I tell it to.

    The manual mentions the ready/not ready thing, but the way I read it, that's something that the emissions tester reads. I think their [Autel's] main point is that just because you clear the codes doesn't mean you'll pass the test, and if you do clear the codes, you may not be tested because of that. I think the emissions tester will just say the car is not ready for testing, and you'll be told to bring it back when it is.

    Periodic emissions testing is not required where my car is registered, so this is somewhat speculative on my part. I use it for a diagnostic tool, not for testing prep.

    As far as this driving cycle, I am unfamiliar and none of my manuals mention it.

    I plan to carry mine in the car so that if the light comes on, at least I can pull off the road, read the code, and make an intelligent [hopefully] decision about what to do next. If you want/need to read and reset codes you won't do it cheaper than this. I showed mine to my buddies at Advance, and they couldn't believe I got it so cheap. [$19, last March] It's basically the same as one they sell for ~$60.

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  • 4
    dave_c - Posted 11:15 pm PDT 10/29/11 (20911 Posts)  Report Spam

    Driving cycle would probably be referring to the ECU learning mode it will go through after reset, during driving. Usually it is not based on a fixed distance (mileage). If it has not completed this learning mode which can vary per car and driving conditions, it cannot generate all possible error codes yet so it is "not ready". This would signify that you can't pull a complete set of codes (if there are any that would be generated otherwise) yet, as well as being something emissions testing would red flag.

    What you might try is clearing the codes, disconnect battery for long enough to be sure ECU is reset, then see if it shows a "not ready" by testing again before running the car much.

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