Ends at 3PM PST. Amazon has the Turtle Wax T-240KT Headlight Lens Restorer Kit for $8 with free shipping on $25+. Restores dull, yellowed headlights to like new condition in less than 5 minutes per lens.
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You're only polishing the dirt with these kits. For real damage you will need to wet-sand them first and then polish. You will still need to periodically polish them to maintain clarity.
I do like my MBZ- they use glass head light cover not plastic... So I don't have to restore that much..
^^ The "wet restoration pads" are the equivalent of wet sanding, you should be able to do a full restore on all but the worst lenses with this kit... except for rock/etc dings but if you sand all those out every time you have a LOT of work to resurface the rest to make it look uniform again.
On the other hand I'm happy with the results of using only plastic polish every year or two but I didn't wait until they looked yellowed to start doing that and don't have to deal with many rock/etc chip producing impacts.
this works OK then?
^ Unless you have deep scratches or dings, then you'll have to start out with a more abrasive sandpaper so it doesn't take several hours to remove enough material to make it somewhat smooth again in that area.
However if your dings are significant, you might first look into getting an acrylic windshield repair kit, wash out and dry the dinged area thoroughly then fill it in with the acrylic leaving a small bump over the area to sand down instead of removing material around the ding too. It won't look perfect in all cases but if a vehicle ages enough to need a headlight lens restore does perfect really matter? Some types of acrylic may not be compatible with polycarbonate lenses due to the solvent used, if in doubt contact the company and ask or proceed at your own risk.
The other option is fine steel wool or abrasive kitchen scrub sponge followed up with typical plastic polish you can get from almost any auto parts store. This is cheaper for maintenance rather than a one-time restore of something really bad. A cordless drill or angle grinder with a buffer wheel on it speeds up the process a lot but uses more polish than doing it by hand.
The 5 minutes per lens is bull bleep. I watched a guy with a power buffer spend about 45 minutes per lens on my car. He made it better, but no where near like new.
I followed #1's advice and although much improved there is still a hazyness on part of the lens so I guess I will have to start with say 500 wet/dry and go from there.
^I went through three grades of sandpaper and about 20 minutes per lens, but it was well worth it. I don't know how bad yours are so I can't really recommend the best grit for you, but the average starting point is 800-1200 and finally 1400.
You have to be careful using a power buffer. He might have left the buffer in the same place for too long which heats up the plastic making an ultra thin, melted cloudy layer on top. It can look like it didn't melt, just cloudy as a result. Either that or he didn't start out with a coarse enough abrasive.
Heat is the enemy, it helps if it's done when it is cold out and the lights haven't been running so the plastic is as hard as possible, especially if using a power buffer instead of doing it by hand. With a power buffer it also helps to switch back and forth, buff one lens for only a little while then the other one.
One of mine had words and other protrusions molded on which I had to use a toothbrush to get close to. If that's needed, do it before the rest of the lens so the broad buffing evens out the area around it.